This lovely city little more than 100 kms. from Buenos Aires feels more like a village, with its laid-back atmosphere, charming residents and pretty river, crossed by one of the country's first bridges (1857).

This is the undisputed gaucho capital of Argentina and steeped in history, where the sound of horses' hooves echoes through the cobbled streets, and bicycles outnumber cars.

Incredibly, San Antonio de Areco, with its rich artisan traditions, pulperías (bar/local shop) and fascinating gaucho museum, has so far remained relatively undiscovered by tourists.

Gaucho Capital

"On the outskirts of the town, about ten blocks of the central square, the Old Bridge spreads its arch on the river, uniting the country seat to the calm field"

Ricardo Güiraldes' description in the first paragraph of his seminal novel, Don Segundo Sombra (1926), is still accurate today.

San Antonio de Areco is the setting for the book which defined the gaucho and the author is buried in the cemetery nearby.

The restored 150-year-old Pulpería La Blanqueada features wax figures playing cards at the bar. It is part of the gaucho museum, Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes, reached by a drawbridge in the Parque Criollo. The 18th-century house contains authentic gaucho artefacts and paintings relating to Ricardo Güiraldes.